Decorating Your Kitchen With A 1940's Retro Theme

These days kitchen décor comes in all colors, sizes and eras. One fun way to decorate your kitchen is with a bit of 1940's nostalgia. Painted cabinets, glass knobs, and vintage linens combined with new appliances that have a retro look can give you a unique and functional kitchen.

You can get a great 1940's look without spending a bundle and still be able to fill your kitchen with some nice collectibles. Here's some ideas on how you can get a 1940's look in your kitchen.

Colors

Some popular colors from this era include jadeite and a red and white theme. You can find plenty of vintage accents to fill your kitchen for either one of these color schemes. Why not start a collection of jadeite that you can display in open cabinets as well as use for dishware? You can jazz the place up with vintage wooden handle gadgets that are painted jadite and cream. If you are going for the red and white theme, there are plenty of red vintage kitchen ware gadgets out there and vintage linens can really perk up the place. Another advantage of the red and white theme is you can also add in a fruit theme on top of it like apples or strawberries.

I would leave the walls a neutral color - white of off white so that it does not detract from all
your great accessories. Linoleum flooring in a checkerboard pattern would be perfect.
Some color coordinated throw rugs can add a bit of color to the floor and pull it all together.

Lighting

Simple lighting is best. You can buy vintage ceiling lights and wall sconces if you want a
really authentic look. Of course you'll want to make sure you have enough task
lighting so some modern lights will have to be worked in. I suggest you make them as subtle as possible so they don't look out of place.

Window Treatments

Use vintage curtains for your windows. You can buy them with complimentary colors and great patterns.
If you can't find curtains make some out of vintage dish towels or tablecloths - you can buy tablecloths that have stains in 1 area pretty cheaply and then just use the good area for the curtains! If you are going with a red and white 1940's kitchen decorating theme, you might want to pick either cherries or apples as a secondary theme and look for curtains with those fruits in the motif.

Furniture

Glass knobs will really jazz up your furniture and cabinets and add an authentic vintage look. If you have painted cabinets in either white or cream, try the green glass knobs. Your table and chairs should either be a chrome vintage style dinette (you can buy these new and you can still get vintage ones as well), or a vintage wooden style table with enamel top. If you can't find either of these, you can buy any type table and hide it with a vintage tablecloth.

Accessories

Accessories for 1940's style kitchens can be found in antique malls as well as bought brand new.
Soften up the room by hanging vintage tablecloths and tea towels around. Chrome appliances go well with this look as do the retro style appliances you can buy brand new these days. And don't forget the vintage
breadbox and canisters - every kitchen had them on the counter and you can choose from chrome
or enamel in cream and green, or red and white to complete your look.

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How to Decorate With Kitchen Curtains

If you have a plain or neutral kitchen you can really have fun choosing some great kitchen curtains and using them as a starting point in your kitchen design and décor.

1. Decide whether to go for Warm or Cool Colors

If your kitchen is mainly white, black, grey or stainless steel then choose cool colors in your kitchen curtains - they are the bright pure shades as well as all shades of blue and purple as well as pure white, black and grey.

If your kitchen has been based on natural shades such as terracotta, wood, beiges and creams then you are looking at warmer colours - mustards, sandy shades, oranges, browns and dusky greens - nothing too sharp or bright even in the yellow and green ranges such as acid lemon or lime green.

2. Select a Fabric with a Pattern

Choose your curtain or curtain fabric to match the desired color range, style and mood of your kitchen. For best results make sure there are several colors or shades of a single color in the fabric.

If you want a contemporary look go for a modern plaid, multi-stripe or an abstract pattern. Floral is good for a country look. For a retro kitchen try and find curtains or fabric which would have been used in that era (even if it would not necessarily have been used in the kitchen).

3. Pick some Colors and Have Fun

Tie your kitchen design together by picking out two or three colors from the fabric for your kitchen accessories. Here are some ideas

Upholster your kitchen chairs (or add some cushions) in a plain fabric to match one of your colors.
Buy a large platter in one of those colors and leave it on display or put some matching china in a glass-fronted cabinet.
Make sure your kitchen towels, apron and oven gloves coordinate too.
Don't just have everything matching in an unimaginative way (like having everything in red) - play with the colors in your curtains.
Maybe use the same colorful fabric in a tablecloth and keep a (colored) jug of complimentary flowers on the table too.
Hang some pictures on the walls in the general color theme too - though you may want to avoid hanging anything too expensive in a kitchen where steam and grease will eventually spoil it.

Once you get started I'm sure you will find lots of ways to coordinate your colors and you will often spot new items when you are not looking for them - try and carry a sample of the curtain fabric with you when you go out.

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Kitchen Curtains - Choosing From the Many Different Styles

Drapes can set off any window. Whether it is a bedroom or day room, the choice of curtains helps to create a certain ambiance in a room. Kitchen curtains compliment the decor created by the cabinets, table tops, counter tops, and flooring, while also creating privacy and blocking beams of blinding sunlight. Kitchen curtains come in several sizes, styles and prints to match any theme.

A common theme found in many kitchens is the country theme. This theme creates an at-home feeling and inspires home cooked meals and dining. Finding a curtain theme that will match your table top settings, table cloth and dishes is important. Most country themed kitchen designs are plain or flowered patterns that come in red, blue, yellow and green. Kitchen drapery includes window panels and valances to match. Most window panels are tie back in style.

There are also kitchen curtains made of embroidered or lace material. Because kitchen windows are generally smaller then other windows in the house, they are usually set up as tiered panels or valances. With the tiered panel, the top panel will expose some of the window to allow sunlight to come through. There are endless themes to choose from at any curtain retailer.

Many manufacturers sell kitchen drapery at wholesale prices. With a slow economy, the Internet leads in sales of all types and curtains are no different. Many online distributors offer curtains at discounted prices such as Swags Galore and Budget Blinds. Because of the elimination of overhead, online stores are perhaps the most affordable option in buying drapery and rods. Make sure to measure your windows and purchase curtains that will adequately cover your kitchen window. Kitchen valances and curtains can be a great addition to top off the decor of all kitchens. They will help create any atmosphere you desire.

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For Those Who Want 1950's Kitchen Design

Retro is in, and the 1950's kitchen design has become the 'it' style in this largely ephemeral world of brilliant ideas. The humongous appetite for hi-end technology may remind you of the well-placed and well-heeled existence of the 21st century, but the nostalgic echo that this much-feted kitchen design resonates with must be experienced to be believed. Even poetic eloquence cannot pay a glowing tribute to its exotic nature.

A Water-Shed, In Every Way

Not many can disagree that the 1950's were a watershed in every sense of the word. Rock and roll infused a sense of verve among teens, and couch potatoes readily surrendered to the hypnotic power of the television. These years were the true signposts of urbanity and modernity.

The values of success and prosperity that this time period espoused also defined everything else, including the kitchen design. Open floor plans, spanking new appliances, Formica countertops, vinyl table cloths and furniture covers and breathtaking subtle shades took centre stage, superbly buttressed by bark cloth, Tupperware dishes, bars and barbeques.

A Cauldron Of Fabulous Memories

A kitchen design that exudes that simply mesmerizing 1950's flavor is sure to stir up some absolutely wonderful childhood memories in you. Here's how you too can get blown away by this blast from the past:

There's a scintillating selection of kitchen appliances that have their roots in the 1950's but are still extremely technologically advanced. Make sure you bring some of them home.
Replicas of coke machines, pay phones and radios will lend that unmistakable touch of class to the décor.
Make sure you weave your way through flea markets and second-hand stores in an attempt to bring the enduring magic of 1950's kitchen furniture to the space.
Canisters, silverware and breadboxes add immense charm too.
A brand-new Formica countertop will give a twist to the adage, 'old is gold'.

Are you ready for a magnificent journey back in time?

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You Can Tile Your Kitchen Floor

Tiling your kitchen floor with ceramic, stone or porcelain evokes the sense of strength, value, and durability. It is aesthetically pleasing, and can cost about the same as a high grade vinyl covering, if you do it yourself. Other benefits are the higher rating on an appraisal of your property, buyer appeal (if you want to sell), and ease in caring for the tile. However all these benefits can be made nil if you do not prepare and install the tile in the correct manner.

Tools Needed For the Job:

Tiles

Backer board

Power Drill (corded or cordless, extra battery pack if cordless)

Hammer

Pry bar

Small piece of thin wood or laminate sample

Safety goggles

Dust mask

Circular saw

Razor blade knife

Gloves (both work and rubber)

Several clean buckets (5 gal. and household smaller size)

Jam saw

Tape measure

Level

Chalk line

Carpenter's square

Painter's tape

Trowel ¼ inch groove, and smaller one made for corners

Thin set

Acrylic additive, or some thin set had it added

Mesh seam tape

Putty knife

Tile spacers

Pencil

Wet saw or manual tile cutter

Tile nippers

Grout

Rubber grout float

Sponge, towels and water

Silicone caulk

Tile and grout sealer

Cleaner for tile

Steps to Follow:

1. Determine the suitability of the floor you want to tile. If you have determined the floor is not level, you will need to use a leveling compound that comes in powdered form in bags; at the same place you buy your supplies. This can be used to level a floor that is otherwise solid. Sometimes you may need to install a new sub floor to get the solidness you need. However, most of the time, when a homeowner wants to install ceramic tile, it is over an existing vinyl floor. Never install directly on the vinyl floor because the tile will pop loose later. Use a tile backer board. There are several types to choose. One has a mesh type covering, with the core looking like rough, crumbled cement. The other has a smooth covering with a smooth core. Both come in either ¼ inch or ½ inch size. I personally prefer the smooth core type because of ease of use, and water resistance. Your choice of thickness will be determined by things such as the adjoining floor's height, as well as things like how it meets at the dishwasher. Remove all moveable appliances and furniture.

2. Choose your tile according to your personal preference. Just be sure to use a tile recommended for floors. Think about the finish on the tile, because you may not want to use a tile that will be extremely slippery in a kitchen. I have found that a less expensive tile is just as durable as the more expensive, if installed properly. Also, for a beginner, it is much easier to use a square tile with a square on square pattern, then to use a complicated pattern.

3. Before laying backer board, determine if you are going to remove the baseboards. Your baseboard will be shorter if you don't. To remove the baseboard and shoe molding (or called quarter round), use a small thin pry bar, a hammer, and your piece of thin board or laminate sample. Place the thin board against the wall. This protects the wall from damage. Place the pry in the crack at the top between the wall and the baseboard. Use the hammer to tap on the hook of the pry bar to wedge it between the wall and baseboard. Use a lifting motion at the end of the bar to pull the baseboard away. Be careful and you won't have to purchase new molding, but just reuse the old. If you have door jams in your kitchen, they have to be cut shorter from the bottom. You do not need to take them down. Just use a piece of backer board, and a piece of tile on top of each other to find the height of the new floor. Mark this on your jam, allowing just a little more for the space the thin set takes up. Using your jam saw cut the jam off. It will now be ready to slip the backer board, and tile underneath when installing.

4. Now is time to install the backer board. Mix the thin set according to directions on the bag. For me, it is better to mix smaller amounts at a time in case I get interrupted, and because it is easier to handle. With a latex or rubber glove on your hand, use your hand to mix. This method is good to feel for lumps that need broken up with your fingers. Another method is to use a drill attachment to mix the water and powdered thin set.

5. Spread out the thin set, with the notched trowel, onto the floor. Arrange sheets of backer board over the thin set. Spread thin set for each piece of backer board one at a time to avoid stepping in it. Each piece than needs fastened down with screws. Use your drill to fasten in the screws. Space them at the marks that indicate placement on the backer board. When installing the screws it is very important that they are flush or slightly below the surface. If they are even a little above the surface of the backer board it can make the tile pivot, and or break after the job is done. Use a circular saw to cut the backer board, or use a razor knife and break the board at the groove you cut. Leave about a ¼ inch space against walls, and cabinets to allow for expansion. Use the mesh seam tape at seams, and use a putty knife and some thin set to embed it onto the seams. Let dry.

6. Using a tape measure, carpenter's square, and chalk line determine a center starting point and be sure it is on square. I like to also use some painter's tape to mark along the chalk line for the first few tiles. It is easier to see when using thin set, and when you remove it you have a straight line again. You only need these makings for the first few tiles. After that you will be lining up with your existing tiles, and tile spacers.

7. Don't use the thin set yet. Instead do a dry layout of some of the tiles to determine the size of the tile at the edges. It is better to adjust by moving the center tile over a little than to try to cut ¼ inch pieces at an edge. Now mix more thin set, and apply in sections and place the tile on top. It is best to start at center of the floor and work out. When placing the tile, be sure that you use a twisting motion, and firm downward pressure to ensure adhesion. Then adjust the tile if needed by using the spacers. If you have to remove a tile before it is set, the pry bar really helps to lift it. The size spacers used is according to preference, and types of tile. Do only the full size tiles where they will fit.

8. The next day, or after areas are dry enough to carefully walk around, start measuring, and cutting tile. To mark, a tape measure and pencil can be used to get the size. But an easier method for most cuts is to lay a tile in the space that needs a cut tile. It will overlap the first full tile. Then line up another full tile on top of the edge of the tile to be cut, and even with the full tile. Allow for the spacing where the grout goes, and draw a line with the pencil using the edge of the full tile. I prefer using a wet saw over a manual saw, unless all the cuts are straight and the full length of the tile. When using a wet saw, first carefully read and follow directions in the manual, and cut some practice pieces. It is not as intimidating as it seems. The saw blade is in a set track. Don't try to cut too fast. Slow and steady is better, and avoids broken tiles. Install cut tiles in the same manner as full tiles, and leave a tiny space at walls, and cabinets. It is now important to let the floor dry undisturbed for 24 hours.

9. Clean tile, using water and spray cleaner. The excess thin set will come off with the use of a scrubbing sponge. If you choose a porous stone tile, you need to seal before grouting. This is to avoid staining the tile. Polished marble, granite, ceramic, or porcelain, do not need to be sealed at this point. Mix grout according to package directions. Again, I like to use a rubber or latex glove to mix. Use the rubber grout float, holding it at an angle to spread the grout over the entire tile floor. Work in sections, and scrape excess off tile, after a few minutes, by holding the float at a more upright angle. After waiting about 30 minutes, use a sponge, and water to clean up more of the grout. Keep rinsing and squeezing the sponge out in your bucket. You may also change the water. You may want to repeat this procedure one more time. It won't be clean yet. Wait until the next day, and then repeat the procedure. This time use old terry cloth towels to wipe and buff after you use the sponge. If there are resistant places, use a cleaner to remove grout haze.

10. Now let the grout cure for the next seven days. If the environment is dry, because of heating, use a spray bottle with water, and spritz on the grout to make it cure stronger. After the time period, and the floor is completely dry, the grout can be sealed. Some tiles need sealed also. It can be done at the same time with the same product. You may need to do a couple coats depending on the product instructions. Re install baseboard and shoe molding.

Here are a few precautions and helpful hints

--If your floor is very out of level you may want to veto tiling, and go with a floating type floor.
--Use thin set, never mastic for areas that will have water exposure. Mastic will melt away if a substantial amount of

water reaches it.
--If you are only tiling at your home, and not more often, rent a wet saw. Reserve it if possible, but don't bring it home

until you are cutting tile.
--When grouting, use painter's tape to protect surfaces such as the base under the counter.
--When mixing thin set, grout, or cutting with a wet saw, do it outside, or in a garage because of the dust. Also, wear

eye goggles and a dust mask.
--When cleaning out buckets or equipment, never pour it down the drain, even be careful about washing hands, because it

will clog the drain.
--Use silicone caulk for perimeter edges instead of grout. Put the quarter round in the wet caulk. Use finish nails to

securely install. The caulk will prevent water from running under edges of the tile.
--For cleaning, damp mop, or if the grout is dirty use a small amount of bleach and water.
--Re-seal the grout once a year. Porous stone may need to be re-sealed every six months.

Enjoy the fruits of your labor! By doing it yourself you have a huge savings in labor costs, and have increased the value of your home!

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